the Church of Bones

There is a small church not too far from Duomo that from the looks of it would not strike you as anything special, maybe you’ve even walked past it, however inside lies a grim history that has to be seen to be believed!

I know what you’re thinking…this is as interesting as it is disturbing, but it should come as a no surprise… this is Underground Milan after all.

In 1210, when an adjacent cemetery ran out of space, instead of finding a new cemetery, the unusual choice was taken to build a chamber to hold the remains of locals at what would become San Bernardino alle Ossa.

Things become even stranger by 1695 when the interior of the current basilica was restored by Giovanni Andrea Biffi who actually decorated the walls of the church with the local remains from the burial chamber (yes, really). Over 500 human skulls and tibiae would cover the walls as if it were a game of Tetris. The ceiling’s fresco was done by Sebastiano Ricci and goes by the name: "Triumph of Souls and Flying Angels” - the irony wasn’t lost on us!

Today, San Bernardino alle Ossa is open and free of charge. If you decide to visit, which we suggest you do during the day and not alone, you certainly won’t be disappointed.

Piazza Santo Stefano, 20122 Milano MI